Life On A B-I7

Day 45

Sheridan Lake CO, 78 miles

The 78 miles covered today checks the box for my longest day so far, and very possibly my longest of the tour.

It’s 5:30 PM Mountain Time. I’m in Colorado! I arrived about an hour ago. Got a sandwich from the convenience store and went to check out the cyclist campground hosted by the local Christian Church. Unfortunately there is no shelter from the wind and the biting flies we’re having a field day with my ankles. Someone told me the flies don’t bite in Colorado, I guess I’m not far enough west yet.

It is windy. I’m going to call it a steady 30 MPH wind with gusts higher. I found a spot that has a pergola which doesn’t help with the wind but will provide some help if it starts to rain later. This is the first time I have written a post in a wind storm. The good news is it’s not cold. I’m waiting for it to get dark, then I will pitch the tent and the rain can do whatever it wants.

I met a guy going east this morning. Big John. He’s only 6-8, so I’m not really sure how he got that name. He needed a bit of chain lube so I fixed him up. We chatted for a bit and he was full of good advice. Super dude. You can follow him here if you’d like.

Crazy Guy On A Bike Note: It’s a BIG site with lots of cool info and blogs. To find Big John’s stuff use the search box and search for “John Murphy.”

Big John has done nine tours. Makes my four look a little weak, but hopefully I have a few more left in me. I really liked his advice about getting some copper water bottles. He said us old guys don’t get enough copper. Another nice thing about copper bottles is that they freeze nicely in hotel room refrigerators so the next day you have cold water for quite awhile!

A bit further down the road I noticed a beautiful steel sculpture. It was outside a bakery. That seemed like a good place to stop. I went in and picked out a couple of baked goods and went to pay. The nice lady told me the family of the man memorialized by the sculpture out front buys whatever a cyclist chooses to eat there. No donations accepted. What a beautiful tribute. The man’s name is John Egbers. He was attempting to cross the U.S. in 24 days. He had made it 2,200 miles in 12 days when tragedy struck John. The sculpture says “We are all diminished by one.” A distracted driver took John’s life. If I were a person of influence I would see to it that a law was passed requiring all cell phone text messaging and browsing apps be disabled if the phone was moving at 20 MPH or more. The technology to make that happen is simple. All it takes is the willingness to allow ourselves to be separated from these two non-essential activities when we are behind the wheel of a car. Maybe some day.

I’m looking forward to seeing what the weather brings tonight!

There was no sign to welcome me to Colorado, so this one will have to do.

Day 44

Scott City KS, 56 miles

Last night when I was planning today’s route, it seemed like today would be a good opportunity to attempt an “epic distance” day. There are of course many “epic” days on a tour of this length, but it is always rewarding to put in one day where you stretch your legs and see how far you can go… Today was not to be that day.

Yesterday morning, the sky was dark to the east and light to the west. When you see clearing skies in your direction of travel, it always makes you feel good. This morning the sky was dark to the west. Not a good sign, or a good feeling. My idea was to have a go at 80 miles, with towns at 31, 56, and 80 miles respectively. I got 15 miles down the road and that’s when the dark skies turned to dark skies and rain. By the time I reached the first town at mile 31, I was, to put it simply, wet. I pulled into a drive-in on the outskirts of town that had covered picnic tables. I ordered some lunch and sat down to wait out the rain. Kansas is not like Seattle, when it rains in Kansas, it doesn’t rain all day long and into the next day. I figured I could wait it out and sure enough, in less than an hour it had stopped and the sky to the west was inviting me to continue my ride. At this point my “epic distance” day was becoming less likely, in fact, it was now off the table. My goal became Scott City at mile 56. All things considered, not a bad day. I would still like to put in an epic distance day at some point, we shall see what tomorrow brings.

I’ve had a desire to describe what it feels like to undertake an epic solo long distance adventure like this one. I’m someone that enjoys writing, but I’m not particularly good at expressing feelings through words. I wish I were better at that. Perhaps too many years writing computer code has ruined any chances of being expressive when it comes to writing English. I might have had a chance at being a good writer if I had started writing for pleasure at a younger age. Not much I can do about that now. What does it feel like to be on the road, solo, days on end? It is exhilarating, sometimes frustrating, often a mystery even to the person that is enjoying the experience. Sometimes I’ll see things that I know few people see, and it chokes me up. The carnage on the road-side is appalling at times, so is the beauty. Listening to the birds is something that you don’t experience while driving. That alone makes the day a success, regardless of anything else that might occur. Imagine these things combined, while traveling for hours on end under your own power and perhaps you can get something of a notion of what it feels like to undertake an epic solo long distance tour. I’m going to have to rest my case there, but I encourage you to give it a try.

This post is about 450 words written in 90 minutes. That is a rate of 5 words per minute. For the record, that does not make me 60 times better than Gustav Flaubert…

I was told at breakfast this morning to be sure and stop at this way-side and check out the historical marker. I’m certainly glad I stopped. I probably would have driven by this if I had been in a car.

Day 43

Ness City KS, 64 miles

I woke this morning at 5 AM to tremendous lightening and thunder. By 6 AM when the sun should have been up it was still scary dark out. It’s now 10 AM and things are looking better, the rain has ceased and the thunder all but ceased. West of here doesn’t look quite as bad. I’m going to try and make Ness City which is 64 miles west on the route. There’s a no-tell there if things fall apart. The National Weather Service has issued a flood warning for the route, so I won’t try and ford where there is water over the road. Of course, that means I’m hoping for the best and I don’t have to turn around somewhere between here and Ness City. What did I say earlier, bad luck can save you from worse luck? If I run into any bad luck I won’t tempt my worse luck by doing something stupid.

It is really hard waking up and facing the day with the thought that you can’t get on the bike. After doing it for so many days, the thought of not doing it can be upsetting. I think this is a thing that people who cycle every day experience. It’s a good thing I would say. I spent the morning thinking of options but nothing really matters because everything depends on what the weather decides to do. I did do some laundry, so if I get rained on today, the rain will be falling on clean cycling clothes.

“He who will, the fates lead, he who won’t, the fates drag…”

The fates led me well today. No rain. Wind at my back most of the day. Dry pavement.

By-the-way, what is a run on sentence, well, I’m not sure, I suppose it’s words expressing multiple thoughts that are joined together with commas when instead they could have been expressed as separate thoughts, commonly referred to as sentences, I’m just guessing, but I’m pretty sure there are some people, possibly even people reading this, that have a much better idea what a run-on sentence is than I do, period

Kansas is not really like a pancake.

Day 42

Great Bend KS, 70 miles

We all have days when we question what we’re doing. When you have a day like that, it’s always better to have a purpose behind it.

My immediate purpose is getting to the next town. The ultimate purpose is completing an epic journey. After that, there will be new challenges, but there’s no time to consider them right now.

I have mentioned my good fortune a number of times already. For the record, I feel fortunate once again. The wind is out of the south today, which makes riding west a pleasure. I can’t put up the spinnaker, but it sure doesn’t hurt to have a southerly wind. I’m told that winds in June are typically out of the south. The westerly winds usually precede a storm out of Colorado. I’m hoping I don’t have to deal with any of those.

It is really good to be back on a Brooks #17 saddle. At least for me, it is the most comfortable saddle I have ridden. I’ll be riding one of these from now on. When I can’t tour any more I’ll put one on my stationary bike.

I have discovered that my new thirst quencher of choice is iced tea. Not only does it taste good but it also gives you a nice kick of caffeine. Oddly enough, there are times riding mid-day when you can be overwhelmed by tiredness. There is a strong temptation to close your eyes. That is a very dangerous thing to do on a bike. Iced tea helps to alleviate that hazard.

I saw a sign that said “free water for bikers,” so I stopped. The water bottles were in a cooler of ice and there was even a bench to sit on. Next to the bench was a sign that said leave us a story about where your have come from and where you are heading. that was very sweet. I sat on the bench, drinking my ice cold water and wrote a little story. Before I had finished writing I noticed flies biting my ankles. They were nasty little things. They were leaving my SPF leggings alone, but they could bite right through my wool socks. My ankles itched for a good half an hour after I got going again.

As I was stopped at an intersection, digging through my pannier for a banana, a fellow pulled up in a pick-up truck and asked me if I was okay. (It’s always tempting to say “if I were okay I wouldn’t be doing this,” but that’s not truly how I feel about the experience.) I told the man I was fine. He asked me where I was coming from and where I was headed. I gave him the particulars. He said “I hope to do that some day.” I smiled and said, “if I can do it you can do it!” He seemed very pleased by that comment.

Finally today: For those of you that know the back-story about how this blog gets written, please don’t tell my alumni friends that I am taking editorial advice from an alumna that did not graduate from our alma mater…

That is one nice looking bicycle. It is an amazing machine.

Day 41

Hutchinson KS, 75 miles

Today was my first real “mileage” day in Kansas. It was mostly flat, but not as flat as a pancake. I know, I’ve been telling people Kansas is “flatter than a pancake” but don’t believe it. There is one benefit to hills when you are going west, when you’re climbing the crest of the hill blocks the wind. Once you reach the top it’s a different ball game until you get to the next hill…

I should be able to reach Colorado in three days. I’m going to try and make that happen. It’s good to be back on the TransAm and I’m loving the new Panaracer Gravel/Road tires. They feel comfortable and they are sure footed. I’m running tubes in them but they can be set up tube or tubeless. I’m starting to think there is nothing wrong with tubes, perhaps it’s even better for a long tour. I’m sure I’ll have more to say on this as I get more time on them.

I was poaching a campsite in a city park that closes from dusk to dawn. The County Sheriff was checking me out this morning but he was too late, the sun was already up. I waved at him. He stayed in his car and watched me pack up. After awhile I looked up and he was gone. I’m just not a very interesting fellow.

When I left Kentucky I went north to St. Louis, rode the Katy Trail, then dropped back down south and rode most of the Flint Hills Trail. By my calculation I covered 690 miles, If I had stayed on the TransAm through Illinois, Missouri, and Eastern Kansas I would have traveled 689 miles. That seems like a pretty efficient detour considering all the great stuff I accomplished along the way.

Tomorrow’s mileage will depend largely on wind and terrain, both of which I have no clue about at the moment…

It’s good to be back on the TransAm. It’s also good to be back on a B-17. Ron and Brutus had a used one they were saving for someone with exceptional taste, like me. I snatched it up. Now I can say I’m riding the saddle this website is named after. Not sure why I ever switched to a C-17, but today’s riding confirmed for me that I will never ride anything other than a Brooks #17.

Day 40

Florence KS, 47 miles (Father’s Day!)

“You never know what worse luck your bad luck has saved you from.”
—No Country For Old Men.

In my case, remarkably good luck has improved the outcome of this trip time and time again. I can’t even really think of a case where I have had worse luck, let alone bad luck. I consider myself a very lucky traveler. I have no explanation for this other than the following observation. Be nice to people. Listen to what they have to say (even if you don’t think they are saying anything) and ask lots of questions. Sometimes it’s not complicated. Sometimes someone will come up to you and ask, “are you the guy riding the bike parked out front?” When that happens, you know you are about to get some good “intel” on the local scene or where you should go next.

My string of amazing luck continues. The owner of the local bike shop is going to open for me at 10 AM this morning because I need tires (again) and repair supplies. He’s going to do this for me even though he is normally closed Sunday and Monday. To make matters even more remarkable, today is Father’s Day and he’s still going to accommodate me.

I also enjoyed two firsts last night. A full-on mid-West firefly exhibition and a full-on thunder and lightening storm after that. I was okay. I set up near a covered structure and when the first drops of rain started coming down, I quickly moved my tent under cover. I knew it was coming because the wind picked up first, enough to wake me. I stayed dry and comfortable all night.

After I get tires and supplies I’m going to try and make Florence KS. It’s 47 miles from here. If Google Maps can find a way to keep me off gravel, I stand a good chance of making it. I have not found a “no gravel” setting when GM is in “bike mode.” I’ll keep looking. Yesterday when I decided to abandon the Flint Hills Trail and head for Emporia. GM insisted I get back on the Trail for another 9 miles, then once I got off the trail it put me on ANOTHER 9 miles of gravel. I had installed my emergency tube in the front wheel as a latch ditch effort to get me rolling yesterday and I did not have a patch kit in case that failed. I babied the tire on gravel, walking at times when the rocks were bad. The tire held, it must have been my excellent repair skills. To keep the tube from pushing itself out of the gash in the side-wall of the tire I folded a bill lengthwise and inserted it between the tire and the tube. I didn’t have a $1 bill so I used a $5 bill, those are five times better anyway. (GM tried to put me on gravel 2 miles out of town so I said no to that and put it in car mode. I was on a 12 foot shoulder all the way to Florence, best asphalt riding I’ve had to-date!

There is one restaurant in Florence and it was open. I was mildly surprised since it is Sunday. However, when I walked in a gentleman by the door told me it was a private party. I smiled, thanked him and walked out. (There was a Conoco a mile away so I had a plan B.) As I was heading out a young man stopped me and we chatted a bit about my trip. He was most kind and apologized for sending me away with no food. I told him a slice of pizza at the Conoco would do. That’s where I went. As I was eating my slice of pizza the young man drove up with dinner for me in a to go box. He explained that he went back in, told everyone about meeting me, and everyone at the party chewed the old man out for turning me away! It’s a beautiful thing. As an interesting side note, the town’s water is spring fed, the tower says the water is 99.967% pure. You bet I’ll fill my water bottles in the morning!

Ron the bike shop dude and his dog Brutus to the rescue!

Day 39

Emporia KS, 71 miles

You’re never sleeping alone when you sleep in a cemetery…

I skipped the cemetery last night and I slept outside the Franklin County Visitor’s Center. I was at the “Not Lost Brewery” in Ottawa and met the owner of the bike shop in town. He gave me the tip about the Visitor’s Center. I like the brewery name, “Not Lost.” One can only hope I suppose. I spent the evening looking over my ACA maps and calculating when I will complete the second stage of my journey…

I’m viewing the ride in three stages. The first stage brought me to the end of the Katy Trail. The second stage will take me from there to the ski resorts west of Denver. This will get me over the highest pass on the TransAm Route, Hoosier Pass, over 11,500 feet. The third stage will take me through Yellowstone, the Rocky Mountains, Idaho, Central Oregon and on to the Pacific Coast. That’s a lot of riding yet to come, but I’m looking forward to it.

There are many rewarding aspects to touring by bicycle. Not knowing what is around the next corner is one of them. The thought of what lies ahead is both intimidating and exhilarating, full of discovery. Once the question of what lies ahead is answered and you get off the bike, the discovery continues. It’s a great way to live each day.

There are some aspects that are less rewarding. Like the blow-out on the Flint Hills Trail today. I tried to fix it with a dart but the gash in the side-wall was too big for a dart. So I then took the tire off the rim and put some dart material inside the tire over the tear and remounted the tire. The sealant tried its best to take care of the leak but it didn’t hold. I carry one spare tube for emergencies and I deemed this an emergency, so I folded a bill and put it between the tube and the gash, remounted the tire and was on my way. I’m still nervous about the whole thing so I decided to reroute to Wichita for another set of tires. That’s over 100 miles but at least it’s going in the right direction. To finish the day I rode to the town of Emporia, my total mileage for today was 71 miles. When I got to Emporia I discovered to my surprise that there is a bike shop. It was closed, but I called the owner and he is going to open up for me tomorrow morning. Another great example of how helpful and accommodating people are out here.

They still have some work to do on the Flint Hills Trail. I left the trail at mile 56 and diverted to the town of Emporia.

Day 38

Raymore MO to Flint Hills Nature Trail KS, MP 20, 63 miles

Yesterday about ten miles outside Clinton I realized the rear tire was low again. It has had a puncture for several hundred miles that sealant just can’t manage. I had new race sealant (thicker compound) put in before I started the Katy Trail but that wasn’t holding either. When I stopped to check the air it was down to 20 lbs. That’s not good. I inflated the tire up to 80 and it immediately went back down to 20. I limped in carefully to Clinton and found the Community Center where I got off the bike to assess the situation.

The options appeared to be 1) patch the tire on the inside, re-inflate and hope for the best. 2) Put in a tube and hope for the best, or 3) find new tires. It so happens I need new tires anyway, This set has about 4,000 miles on them and they are 4 years old. they aren’t going to go much farther. If I were to continue west on the route, there aren’t any bike shops until Wichita, about 250 miles from Clinton. That seems like a poor choice for tires that need replacing. The nearest bike shop that had tires for me was 60 miles north. I wasn’t crazy about adding 120 miles and 3 days to my itinerary (out and back from Clinton). As I was mulling over all the options I was chatting with the (very) nice lady that runs the Clinton Community Center. She was fantastic. She said why don’t you call Greg and he’ll shuttle you up to Raymore to the bike shop. So that’s what I did. Greg said he was leaving in two minutes headed north and he’d pick me up and give me a ride. That’s how I ended up at Dave’s Bicycles in Raymore.

I arrived at Dave’s 15 minutes before closing and Dave and his crew got me all set up with new tires. The best part of all this, besides the help at the Community Center, Greg’s Shuttle Service, and the crew at Dave’s, is I now have a new option available to me for heading west from here! Thank you Dave for the awesome tip about the Flint Hills Nature Trail!

I’ve been writing about the Katy Trail, the longest rail-trail in Missouri (and the U.S.) but the longest rail-trail running east-west in Kansas is 43 miles Southwest of here. It’s the Flint Hills Nature Trail and it runs from Osawatomie KS to Council Grove KS, about 100 miles. It is the longest rail-trail in Kansas and it will be part of the proposed coast-to-coast trail system. I can’t pass up this opportunity. After I reach Council Grove I’ll make my way back to the TransAm Route.

A big shout-out to everyone that helped me yesterday. Great people, great towns. Perhaps leaving a blessing back at the Pour Poet in the morning was a gesture that was returned to me later in the day… you never know…

When I hit the state line there was no sign, so this was my “first step” off the bike in Kansas.

Day 37, Katy Trail

Windsor MO to Clinton MO, 17 miles

Today is a beautiful day. I’m excited to be finishing the Katy Trail. It’s been a wonderful six days, but all good things eventually come to an end. As I put the Katy behind me, i’m looking forward to what will come my way on the next leg of my journey.

The Katy Trail is finished! I rang the bell at the Depot in Clinton!

I had coffee this morning at The Pour Poet in Windsor. I spent two hours enjoying my morning and talking to the proprietor. The coffee shop is also an antique shop and used book store. The books offered there are treasures. I found a biography of Gustavo Flaubert that I had to have. I told my host that I couldn’t carry it and she said, “why not mail it home?” She not only poured a good espresso, she was also a good sales person. I ordered an Americano to back-up my double espresso and sat down to read a few pages from the book that will soon reach home before I do…

Flaubert was the last of the great French Romantic Novelists. Although he was well know in the Paris Salons and he traveled widely in the Mediterranean, he spent most of his time at home caring for his mother and, in his words, “living like an oyster.” He wrote his works at the rate of 5 words per hour. That makes me feel good. I ride slower than most of the people that I meet touring. Now when they pass me I can just think of Gustave Flaubert.

The highlight of my visit to the Pour Poet Coffee Shop was the Papier-Tole framed on the wall of the shop. The proprietor (I do wish I had gotten her name) told me her mother made it. The shop is named in honor of her mother’s creation. Papier-Tole is a technique for recreating a painting using multiple prints of the original work. The end result is a 3-D rendering of the original. The painting her mother chose to recreate was The Poor Poet, a painting by the German painter Carl Spitzweg. The painting was created in 1839. Her mothet’s Papier-Tole version is a masterwork of Papier-Tole. If you go to Windsor, you MUST visit The Pour Poet to see The Poor Poet.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Poor_Poet

Going back to yesterday, I’ve learned that the turtles I’ve been moving off the trail are called Box Turtles. I also learned that Alligator Snapping Turtles are common in this area. They were described to me (so I could keep an eye out for them) and it was made clear to me that if I see one I should just keep rolling.

Also yesterday, I had someone ask me if I was wearing a “smart watch.” Someone else told me they liked the way I mounted my “smart phone” on the handle bars of my bike. Finally, someone asked me if I was wearing “Smart Wool” socks. (You can’t make this stuff up.) I’m going to resist the temptation to assume people are sending me a message about how I may be compensating in some way…

It crossed my mind that I haven’t tried writing a poem yet on this journey. I wrote several when I crossed the U.S. on the Southern Tier back in 2019. Those of you that have read my Southern Tier Journal are saying to yourselves “that’s a good thing.” Sooner or later I’m going to have to give it a try. (If you’re curious you can find those entries by clicking on the ARCHIVE link at the top of this page.)

I left a “blessing” on the “Blessing Board” at The Pour Poet Coffee Shop in Windsor MO for the next cyclist heading to Oregon! (In this case a “blessing” is a gift card.)

Day 36, Katy Trail

Boonville MO to Windsor MO, 56 miles

I got to the cafe in Pilot Grove where I planned to eat breakfast at 7:15 AM. The sign said they open at 8 AM. It’s now 8:20 AM. I called to see if they were going to open today and the phone rang, as you might expect, inside the cafe. There was no answer. I hate leaving here only to spend the rest of the day wondering if I missed them by just minutes, but there is a point of diminishing returns and I think I’m approaching it…

Once you leave Boonville going west, there’s no more historical markers. The trail departs from the Missouri river and goes cross-country. It’s a bit up and down in places but it’s still a railroad grade so it’s not too demanding. It’s tree-lined almost the entire way. I’ve had to move two turtles off the trail today. They are very shy. My shadow was enough to make them pull themselves into their shells.

I reached the High Point of the Katy Trail today, 955 feet above sea level. Here the Missouri department of conservation is restoring the prairie grasses that used to exist in this part of the state before it fell under the plow. The Osage Indians lived here until the were forced to trade away their land rights, as was the case with all native Americans. That’s another story.

I met a cool dude today. He is traveling the country with his dog Mona. (She is a cutie.) He is currently on his way to Chicago to attend his daughters wedding. I gave him all the details on the Chain of Rocks Bridge since he will need to cross the Mississippi River into Illinois. You can follow him on his blog here:

www.mandogbike.com

When you are bicycle touring, there are no bad days, but some days are better than others…

I think I spent too much time today looking ahead instead of looking around. Looking ahead to my route through Kansas. I’m afraid much of my day today in the saddle was spent anticipating what is facing me, rather than enjoying what is in front of me. I’m making a mental not to avoid that tomorrow…

Nearing the end of my Katy Trail journey.

Day 35, Katy Trail

_ Cooper’s Landing CG MO to (Somewhere West of) Boonville MO, 45 miles_

I love the way butterflies on the trail fly up in front of you, seemingly out of nowhere. Sometimes they even flutter right in front of your face.

I got a real compliment yesterday. I was at a trail head and a fellow rolled up and got off his bike, he looked at me and said, “you can always tell a real cyclist by the way they pack their gear and the way they stand their bicycle up when they’re not on it.” I thanked him and we chatting about bicycles for some time. The reason this turned out to be such a nice compliment is that he has worked as both a mechanic and as a trained tour guide for two major bicycling tour companies.

I try and read signs. Sometimes it’s not my fault. I saw a sign on the trail that said, “Bistro and Wine Tasting: follow the path to the top of the bluff, 0.3 miles.” I followed the path to the top of the bluff. It was very steep and partially washed out. They should not have even had a sign on the trail, it was irresponsible. I labored all the way to the top and what did I find? The Bistro is closed on Tuesdays. I have to admit the view up here of the Missouri River is beautiful, so I’m going to rest and enjoy the view for awhile.

Sometimes when I look at people around me, it makes me very grateful that I’m able to undertake this journey. Not a lot of people my age are well enough to accomplish this sort of undertaking. Sometimes people I talk to are shocked when I tell them I’m crossing the country. I just say, “you don’t have to be smart to do this, just persistent.” The truth is, everyone I’ve met along the way that is doing this is both smart and persistent. I think the two go hand-in-hand.

Sidebar: You never see skinny guys in a recumbent. (But good for them.)

For me, the nicest features of the Katy Trail (in addition to the scenery) are the Historical Markers documenting the Lewis and Clark Expedition and local history. There is a placard with detailed information about the expedition every five miles or so. I have found it well worth the stops to take them in. An interesting thing about cycling is that once you start turning the pedals, you don’t want to stop. It takes conscious effort. You have to tell yourself, “Oh, there’s an historical marker, I better stop.” If you listen to that voice, you’ll be rewarded.

I stopped for a double espresso in Rocheport. Since I’m not cooking in the morning, I’m not getting my morning ration of caffeine. When I find a good espresso it’s a real treat.

There are very few tunnels on the Katy Trail, this is one of the more picturesque ones.

Day 34, Katy Trail

Bluffton MO to Cooper’s Landing CG MO, 65 miles

Due to a stupid mistake on my part, I ended up doing 13 miles out and back from Hartsburg to find some dinner. If I had just read the sign correctly, I would have discovered that the restaurant in Hartsburg where I wanted to eat was planning to open today. When I got back to Hartsburg and realized my mistake I decided to keep going, so I did another ten miles to Cooper’s Landing CG. It’s a cool place, but I got there late and the band was packing up. Everything worked out fine. What doesn’t kill you makes you stronger, and my legs got a nice workout today.

Doing the Katy Trail is not exactly the cake walk I had expected, at least after a good rain. The ground has some rolling resistance after it takes on moisture. It’s a bit deceiving. You don’t notice it at first, then about half way through the day you say to yourself, “this is not as easy as rolling on asphalt…”

Ever since I left Yorktown I’ve been thinking about the importance of training when taking on a challenge like this. My recommendation is to not approach this the way I did, which is to say, not train. Oh, I have my excuses, and some of them might even be considered good in some circles, but it was either wait and train, or just go. Waiting and training would have made the crossing much later in the year than is wise, so I made the decision to just go. You can bet before I do something like this again (and I hope I do) I will pay more attention to preparation. Now that I have been on the road for a month, here’s what I think would have been ideal — for me. Two months prior to starting, ride 20 miles a day taking a day off here and there. Interspersed with 20 mile rides, do a few 50 milers now and then. That would not only have prepared me physically, it would have revealed things like my bike not being geared properly and the seat not quite the right one for distance touring. Like I mentioned above, everything is working out fine, but I could have made it a lot easier on myself. All I’m going to say in closing on this subject is that life is about learning.

The view from Cooper’s Landing CG.

Day 33, Katy Trail

Agusta MO to Bluffton MO, 45 miles

I don’t usually start my daily journal entry in the morning, but I’m up early and I have a few minutes before I need to be on the road. I’m three miles east of Augusta and if I leave now its likely there won’t be a cafe open for breakfast. (My editor has informed me there is no need to put a bang (‘) after the word its. So from now on I’ll try to remember not to do that…)

The campground last night offered me two options for sleeping, a nice patch of dirt with some blades of grass here-and-there, or a covered picnic table. While it might not occur to everyone that a covered picnic table is a great place to throw down the sleeping bag, I think it’s ideal. I don’t have to go to the trouble of setting up a tent or packing it up the next morning, and it gives me more time to read and write. It had started raining by the time I needed to make a choice so that sealed the deal. I inflated the mattress, threw down the sleeping bag and I was asleep within a few minutes. I suppose you might call that a form of “stealth camping.”

Today is going to be a bit longer day, but I’m getting a much earlier start, so there won’t be any need to push. It should be a very relaxing day. The sky looks like it could produce some rain at some point during the day. That will remain a mystery, until it occurs… Ah! just as I finished writing that sentence, the mystery was solved! I’ll just take an extra minute to dig out my rain jacket…

When the birds start chirping you know it has stopped raining…

I don’t normally finish my daily entry the next today, but yesterday is an exception. Shortly after I started down the road it started raining. So hard in fact I had to not only put on my rain coat but also get off the bike and hunker down under some trees to try and avoid the worst of the downpour. After almost an hour of relentless rain, I heard some chirping, sure enough the birds were informing me that the rain was letting up. The only trouble was the sky to the west was still dark and that was my direction of travel. I started out anyway and got one mile down the trail only to be engulfed again. Fortunately there was a trailhead there and I was able to get under some cover. By then I was so wet and cold I had to put on my light weight down jacket under my rain coat. I waited another hour and was finally able to get under way again.

I made progress enough, but a wet Katy Trail is not as easy to cycle as a dry one (although there is no dust). Along the way I stopped at the “Katy Caboose” in Marthasville. Jon the chef and proprietor made a nice sandwich for me. We got to chatting and Jon mentioned that he is running for president! “Running” is a play-on-words. He’s planning to shut down the Caboose in January and go down to Florida and try and set the record for the shortest time on foot traversing the Pensacola Trail. After that, he’s going to continue on to San Diego. His goal is to cover 50 miles a day on foot. He has documented his “running” campaign on his website:

www.forestforpresident.com/

His motto, “I Just Felt Like Running” describes his campaign and his upcoming cross-country journey. I admire him. I’m doing 50 miles a day, but I’m not on foot! If you’re on Facebook you can look for me there. He took my photo to post. Jon takes photos of all the cyclists that stop at his cafe that are going across the country. The page is called “Going All The Way.”

I’ll be following Jon on his cross-country epic starting early next year.

Day 32, Katy Trail

St. Charles MO to Augusta MO, 33 miles

My three days of rest has come to an end, time to get out of town…

It’s been a great three days of rest. Got to Saint Charles for a late Brunch. This is where my Katy Trail Adventure will begin. In total between here and Clinton MO, I will cover a bit more than 225 miles of rail trail. The Katy is one of the premier rail trails in America, and the longest. It has been on my bucket list for some time and because I came north to St. Louis I’m able to check this box!

I started the day taking my bike into the Maplewood Bicycle shop for some TLC. Christopher the mechanic there did me a real solid. Not only did he remount both tires and add new slime, he also found the puncture in the rear tire, tightened the crank/spindle bolts and adjusted the rear derailleur. The shop had a high-pressure Silca Tattico mini-pump (these are hard to find) so I picked that up as well. It’s the next best thing to a real high-pressure frame pump (those are even harder to find). I can not recommend Maplewood Bicycles in Maplewood MO enough. Top notch people, top notch store!

I visited the History Museum and Art Museum in Forest Park yesterday. They are two of the best museums in the country. I had ribs a Pappy’s Smokehouse yesterday, voted best ribs in the country by Food Network and ate brunch this morning at Le Belle Vie in Saint Charles, voted the best breakfast/lunch spot in Saint Charles. The Cards won their game last night (even though the bullpen tried to give it away). Absolutely could not have asked for a better visit to St. Louis!

Before leaving Saint Charles I met a man that was curious about my trip. We chatted for several minutes and he recommended a book that I will have to read, ”The Oregon Trial” by Rinker Buck. It sounds like a fascinating read. At the end of the day I stopped into the Good News Tap House in Augusta for a beer. To my surprise I met a man there that grew up just a few miles from where I did. It is such a small world, truly!

It looks like rain is coming in. Tomorrow could be sloppy at times. Can’t worry about that, the trick is to take events one at a time as they present themselves…

Back on the road!

Day 31

St. Louis MO, 0 miles (Rest Day 3)

”All you need to be assured of success in this life is ignorance and confidence.”
— Mark Twain

Preparedness helps too, but sometimes having the confidence to simply follow your nose reaps surprising rewards. I can’t count the number of times I have had no particular goal in mind and I ended up meeting an interesting person, being hosted by wonderful people, or simply having a pleasant conversation with a complete stranger. These are some of the things that make travel by bicycle such a pleasure. That, and the feeling of accomplishment you get at the end of each and every day…

As I was making my way to the west end of St. Louis on Tuesday, it was getting into late afternoon, I had been meandering very slowly. I decided to stop at a local watering hole situated on the edge of the Washington University campus. There was a fellow sitting alone outside the tavern, well dressed, we greeted one another and he invited me to join him. I went inside and grabbed a Busch Beer (I try to sample the “local” varieties as much as possible). After chatting for a few minutes I learned he was a retired attorney that had practiced law at a large firm in downtown St. Louis for almost 40 years. He probably was educated at WU, but we didn’t get into that. A bit later a Chef from the restaurant next door came by and sat down with us. The two were obviously friends. My new Chef friend lit up an eight inch cigar. I’m a bit sensitive to cigarette and cigar smoke but I didn’t say anything, the conversation was too entertaining. (Perhaps if wildfire smoke from Canada had been blowing into St. Louis, I might have moved further away.) The conversation progressed until the Chef asked me if I carried a gun for protection. I could tell my attorney friend suddenly became ever so slightly more interested in the conversation. There are many ways you can approach a question like that, but considering that I didn’t want to get into a long philosophical debate about guns, I just laughed and said, “No, they are way too heavy to carry when your riding a bicycle across the country.” My Chef friend seemed to understand that, he shook his head and took another long puff on his cigar, then he asked me, “well then, do you carry a knife?” I replied immediately, “You bet I do.” that ended the conversation… Something tells me a Swiss Army Knife was not exactly what he had in mind…

The reason for my diversion to St. Louis. That, and the opportunity to ride the Katy Trail.

Day 30

St. Louis MO, 0 miles (Rest Day 2)

Rest Day 2 is literally that, a rest day. I went to a local grocery to get some fresh fruit. I’m not getting the nutrition I need to keep my legs strong, hopefully this will give them a boost. I’ve been cleaning the bike and getting my gear organized for the next leg of my journey, the Katy Trail. I’m very excited to be incorporating that into my itinerary. I hadn’t planned to do the Katy when I started out, but it became a viable option when I decided to divert to St. Louis for a Cardinals-Reds game.

Unless something unforeseen arises, I’ll be starting the Katy Trail on Saturday. I plan to take it leisurely, an average 38 miles per day. I’m planning 6 days of riding over about 225 miles. The surface is what is called “chat.” Chat is crushed limestone (not a virtual room for conversation). It’s a very smooth hard surface when it’s not wet. When it’s wet, progress can be slow. The biggest hazard on the trail are thorns that can find their way into your tires causing flats (reminds me of the Southern Tier). I’ll try to miss them whenever possible… Speaking of that, I haven’t had a single flat since I started the ride. I’m pleasantly surprised about that. I’ll see if my streak continues on the Katy Trail. Luck favors the prepared and the unconscious…

The Katy is a rails-to-trails project built on the now abandoned M-K-T Railroad Line. M-K-T stands for Missouri-Kansas-Texas Railroad, “Katy” for short. The Katy branch connected western rail lines to the east via St. Louis. It became a vital link in opening the west. The Katy began operation in 1892, and was in use for almost 100 years.

My first stop in St. Louis. The Gateway Arch. The Arch is modeled after what is know in math circles as a Catenary Curve. That is the natural shape a suspended chain takes when fixed at both ends. The Catenary Curve points down and the Catenary Arch points up. The Gateway Arch was built to commemorate the 1803 Louisiana Purchase and the opening of the west. St. Louis was considered the point of departure for settlers and explorers migrating westward.

Day 29

St. Louis MO, 0 miles (Rest Day 1)

I’m putting today’s post up early. I don’t have a lot planned for today. Zero miles in fact. I’m going to clean the bike and get it ready to take in tomorrow for its’ new chain and cassette. I’m going to rest my legs and read as much about the Katy Trail as I can. For example, I know the trail is the longest “rail trail” project in the U.S. At 280 miles long, It takes its’ riders from St. Louis all the way to Kansas City. it is as long as the Colorado River. Unlike the river however, it is dry and mostly flat, unless it rains, then it becomes a mess to ride on, or so I’m told. Rain is in the forecast here for the day after I head out onto the trail, I suppose I’ll find out first-hand what that means for bike and rider.

I wanted to say a bit more about my crossing over the Chain or Rocks bridge. You can sense what an important structure it was back in its’ day. There is something majestic about the structure, nothing like today’s modern concrete bridges, it is actually quite dramatic to look at up close. It is also narrow, which is clearly shown in yesterday’s photo. It’s no wonder it was only in service from 1936 until 1965, less than three decades. What is amazing is that it is still standing today. The Army Corp of Engineers wanted to tear it down but the price of scrap steel at the time did not make the proposal feasible. That’s a good thing, because we now have preserved for our enjoyment an important part of our history. Hopefully future generations will be able to enjoy this early engineering marvel as well.

In the end we will conserve only what we love; we will love only what we understand; we will understand only what we are taught.”
— Baba Dioum, Senegalese Conservationist

During the last Ice Age, the Mississippi River was blocked by an ice dam and was forced to change its’ course. the new channel it carved exposed a layer of bedrock that the river has not yet been able to fully erode. The exposed layer of bedrock was up river from the bridge and referred to as the “Chain of Rocks.” To allow safe passage on the river, the Army Corp of Engineers built a low-water dam just below the bridge. You can see this clearly in the photo below. This raised the level of the river over the rocks enough to allow safe passage. In 1956 the Corp built and 8 mile long canal that shipping uses to bypass this stretch of river entirely. Also in the photo below, taken from the bridge, you can see a tower in the middle of the river. This was used from 1894 until 1915 to draw drinking water for St. Louis.

During the course of its’ 50 year history, Route 66 has crossed the Mississippi River between St. Louis MO and Madison IL over a total of five bridges. The Chain of Rocks bridge is the only one no long carrying vehicle or rail traffic.

Tower and low-water dam just below the “Chain of Rocks” bridge.

Day 28

St. Louis MO, 42 miles

Today I was on the road at 7:00 AM. I wanted good light for photos when I crossed the “Chain of Rocks Bridge.” I was freaking-out when I arrived at the East end of the bridge and saw that it was gated and locked. I got off the bike to take a closer look and found a sign that said volunteers open the bridge every day by 9:00 AM. I only had to wait a few minutes and a fellow drove up to unlock and open the gate. We had a nice conversation. He asked me if I was riding across the country for charity. I had to admit that I wasn’t. Not being on Facebook makes it tough to raise money for charity.

After crossing the iconic Route 66 bridge, I rode the riverfront bicycle trail all the way to downtown St. Louis and the Gateway Arch. The ride in to St. Louis follows the Mississippi River and various canals built to support shipping and industry. The area along the river is a major industrial hub of America, not terribly picturesque, but vitally important economically.

After hanging out at Gateway Arch for awhile, and having my picture taken, I simply rode around downtown St. Louis. I was looking for interesting sights. After an hour or so, I ended up in West St. Louis. I stopped at a corner and three people started chatting with me. When they found out I was crossing the country they were excited to hear about my trip. One of them took my picture while another got me some water. After chatting for awhile I was asked if I liked BBQ? I replied, “I’m in St. Louis, right?” Well that got them laughing. They told me the best BBQ in St. Louis was just a half-a-block away! The place is closed on Tuesday so I’ll be back on one of my rest days.

I wandered a bit more until I found myself in Brentwood. That’s where I’m going to hang-out for the next three days. The bicycle trip will resume on Saturday after I go to the Cardinals Reds game Friday night. I’ve decided I’m going to do the Katy Trail before I drop back south to resume the TransAm route. More on the Katy to follow…

The famous Route 66 “Chain of Rocks Bridge.”

Day 27

Granite City IL, 36 miles

Ride Summary:

• 24 riding days
• 1,208 miles
• 50.3 miles per day

I’m pretty happy with those numbers. I think the average is going to go up after I get the new cassette and chain installed.

The iconic route into St. Louis from Illinois is to follow Route 66 over the famous “Chain of Rocks Bridge.” The Bridge was built to cross the Mississippi River in 1929 and was an engineering marvel in its’ day. Because of hazards to navigation on that stretch of the river (from which the bridge takes it’s name) the bridge had to be built with a unique 30-degree turn mid-way across the river. In the 1960s, the Army Corp of Engineers built a low-water dam, so you can’t actually see the “Chain of Rocks” in the river any longer. It has been closed to traffic for some time but it is open to walkers and cyclists. The bridge is listed on the national historic registry.

The first six miles out of Belleville I was on the St. Louis Metro Bike Link Trail. I could have caught the light rail and gone all the way to St. Louis, but of course that would have been cheating…

At my lunch stop I chatted with a local cyclist that has done a fair bit of touring. He asked me if I was planning to do the Katy Trail. He was asking me a fair question. It might be hard to divert all the way to St. Louis, only to bypass the opportunity to do the Katy. I’m going to have to give that some serious consideration.

You do miss your friends back home from time-to-time when you’re on a long distance tour. To be a bit more precise, there are times when you wish your friends back home could be experiencing the things you are experiencing. The reality is, that’s not the nature of the beast. A long distance tour is, to a large extent, discovering new things on your own. Taking those new things and making them a part of who you are. When everything is said and done, it just gives you more to share once you do get back home. There are other benefits. I think it makes you stronger and also a more tolerant person, not quite so quick to form opinions, and with luck, more gracious about those opinions you do form.

Tomorrow morning I’ll be going over the Route 66 “Chain of Rocks Bridge” into St. Louis. I stopped early today to get my bike cleaned up for the big day tomorrow!

Day 26

Belleville IL, 78 miles

High mileage day!

So far, I’ve lost two hats on this trip and a pair of gloves. (I liked both the hats a lot, the gloves didn’t matter.) One thing I’m learning is that you really have to keep track of your things carefully. Whenever something is outside of a pannier, you have to keep it in hand. If it’s not in hand, it needs to go back inside your pannier. You would think that keeping track of the few things you carry with you on a trip like this wouldn’t be a problem, but apparently it is, at least for me.

For the second time on the trip, my right derailer downshift paddle quit working. It happened once on the Blue Ridge Parkway and happened again yesterday. There doesn’t appear to be anything wrong with the cable. The paddle just doesn’t engage. The funny thing about it is after a short period of time it starts working again. I can’t explain this. I would like to be a better mechanic so I could solve problems like that on my own, or at least understand them.

I went into a CVS yesterday to get some sunscreen and when I came out a fellow pulled up right next to me and started chatting. He asked me how far was I going and I told him Oregon. he looked at me and he said “I want to do that someday.” That led us into a very nice conversation about cross country touring, touring bikes, and the ins-and-outs of long-distance cycling. He was a cool dude. I hope he takes the opportunity to do an adventure like this some day.

I’m not sure how I’m going to get across the Mississippi tomorrow. More to follow on that…

I woke my friend early. He didn’t mind a bit. The dude abides!

Day 25

Benton IL, 34 miles

Today was a shorter day because the heat was in the low 90’s again. I got a late start, 8 AM. Tomorrow I’m going to be on the road early and try and pull off 50 miles.

The day started out on two miles of gravel. I’m not really set-up for gravel, but Google Maps is trying hard to keep me off busy roads, so far I have no complaints. I really have no idea where I am most of the time when I am following Google Maps, it will even bypass towns occasionally, but the scenery is so beautiful, the riding is so relaxing, it doesn’t really matter.

I stopped for lunch and read the daily specials wrong… it wasn’t a brisket sandwich. It was a pork steak. A 2 lb. (at least) bone in, chunk of meat. I couldn’t eat it. I could barely even look at it. I am not a meat snob, but there are some things you can’t do when your on a long distance cycling tour, that is one of them. To be polite I asked for a to-go box… but it didn’t go very far…

Illinois is called the “Land of Lincoln” because he lived there for 33 years. He spent more time in the Illinois legislature than he did in Congress or the White House. He is for all intents and purposes “a Son of Illinois.”

Google Maps wanted me to take this road but that wasn’t going to happen! As it turns out, I stayed on black-top and the shortcut GM wanted me to take was a nothing-burger. My guess is it wanted to save me a hill, but the hill it wanted me to avoid was a nothing-burger too. All’s well that ends well.

Day 24

Harrisburg IL, 59 miles

Fifty-nine miles doesn’t sound like a lot, but the temperature hit 93 degrees today. I had to work to keep hydrated and even then by the end of the day I was pretty exhausted. I have 135 miles to go to get to St. Louis. If the temperatures continue to hover in this range, that’s at least a three day ride. That won’t be a problem. My tickets for the Cardinals Reds game aren’t until next Friday, so I’ll be getting a few days of rest in St. Louis.

The good news today is that for the first time on this trip, I’ve had to use the small chain-ring on the front derailleur very few times! It’s been a good day. I actually have a lot of good news to share…

When I got to Smith Mills, about mid-day, I stopped in some shade to cool off. A guy from a block away yelled at me and told me to wait-up. (That was not really going to be a problem.) He walked over to me and we chatted for about 20 minutes. He was just a friendly guy and wanted to hear about what I was doing. (It’s pretty obvious I’m traveling, one look at my bike gives that away.) When I was getting ready to leave he pulled out his wallet and give me three dollars. I told him I couldn’t accept that but he insisted. It was a beautiful gesture and I appreciate it. I thanked him and got on my way but I will remember his generosity.

I crossed the Ohio River on the Shawneetown Bridge. This may not have been the best choice, but the route I’m following (back roads) doesn’t offer a lot of extravagant options for getting over the Ohio River. It was a two-lane bridge with barely enough shoulder on one side for a bike. Given that prudence is the better part of valor, I decided walking the bike across the bridge would be a good idea. I suppose that means I can tell people I walked across the Ohio River…

About mid-afternoon I stopped for water at a convenience store in Shawneetown. An old guy on a Pinion Drive bicycle rode up as I was walking into the store. I headed into the store without paying much attention to him, as I was standing in front of the cold drinks he came up and started chatting with me. We ended up having a long conversation. (Of course I mean no disrespect when I say “old guy,” because naturally, one of the reasons he stopped to chat with me was because I’m sure to him I looked to be about his same age.) He told me about his crossings of the U.S. back in ‘78 and ‘79. He’s made the crossing twice but he included Canada in his routes. We had a really nice conversation and he told me about his Pinion Drive bicycle. It’s a belt drive with all internal gearing. I don’t know if the concept will ever catch on, but it was a sweet set-up. He looked at my bike and asked me how I got there from Virginia with an 11-22 rear cassette. I told him there were times when I wasn’t sure myself…

When I pulled in to Harrisburg for another water stop a guy offered me a tube of hydration tablets. People have been so kind to me, it is truly impressive.

At the beginning of this post did I say I had “tickets” (plural) to the Cardinals Reds game on Friday? That’s because my Sweetie is flying out to St. Louis to meet me for three days and I’m taking her to the game! She’s also flying out with a new cassette and chain for the bike. The cassette she’s bringing is an 11-34. That will make the hills a lot more manageable. She went in to Davidson bicycles and talked to Bill Davidson and his mechanic Mark and they got her all set up with exactly what I need. They are great guys and they build awesome bikes. Their reputation precedes them far and wide.

After passing through Kentucky, the birthplace of Lincoln, I’m going to have to do some brushing up on my history to understand why Illinois is called “The Land of Lincoln.”

Day 23

Henderson KY, 36 miles

A spent all morning wandering around Owensboro looking for bike shops so that added a few miles to my daily total. (I also found a good donut shop.)

Today is June 1, the first day of a new month, and also the first day of a new adventure within an adventure. Until the last 22 miles into Owensboro, I’ve been following the ACA (Adventure Cycling Association) route maps. They originally established the route back in 1976 to give people an “epic” route across the U.S. The first ride that year was made by some 5,000 cyclists. (That first ride became know as the “Bike Centennial.”) The ACA route follows back roads. You could probably count the number of miles on busy 2-lane roads the ACA route has traversed from Yorktown until yesterday on two hands. Yesterday the last 22 miles into Owensboro was off the ACA route. I followed Google Maps using the “Bike” option for routing. Out of curiosity I’ve been comparing Google Maps (GM) and ACA maps routing choices for the last several days. GM does a good job of keeping you off busy 2-lane roads. The last 6 miles using GM was a bit of a white knuckle ride, but in fairness to GM, I don’t think there were a lot of options. There was very little shoulder, heavy traffic, and about four miles out a thunder storm overtook me. I was happy to arrive in Owensboro only slightly worse for wear.

From here to St. Louis I’ll be using GM. The one thing ACA maps do well is provide camping and hosting information along the route. I may have to get a bit creative when it comes to where to stay at night.

Before leaving Owensboro I went hunting for a bike shop and I found a good one. I needed some new gloves and some CO2. I had the mechanic/owner take a look at my bike with an eye towards what he might be able to do to give me some more climbing gears. He was very complementary. He noticed the name Davidson on the bike and told me I had a really good bike. He was familiar with the name. He couldn’t say enough nice things about the build and told me there was nothing he could do to help me out. He told me the group-set that I have is top quality even though it’s maybe not the best choice for the hills of Virginia and Kentucky (that was my choice, so that’s on me). He said some people come into his shop and ask for help and he says he takes one look at their bike and has no idea how they made it from Yorktown to Owensboro. We both got a good chuckle out of that. This bike has been across the country once already, I have no doubt it will make it again.

Barge on the Ohio River.

Day 22

Owensboro KY, 66 miles

It’s the last day of May, I’ve been on the road for 21 days now.

The time zone change to Central Time Zone takes effect right in the neighborhood of Big Clifty where I spent the night. My watch and iPhone are having trouble agreeing what time it actually is, I’m not really sure either. I’m confident by the end of the day things will resolve themselves (as I progress west).

I keep having “revelations” (see photo below). Actually, they aren’t revelations per-se, I’m just relearning things I’ve forgotten… For example, it dawned on me today that I can further reduce shimmy in the front end of the bicycle by putting more pressure on the pedals and relaxing my grip and pressure on the handle bars. It worked quite well.

As an aside, the folks here in Kentucky love their grass. Every house is surrounded by a large grassy landscape, and everyone has a riding mower. I go by at least twenty homes a day where the owner is cutting the grass on a riding mower. It’s an ethos that is completely unfamiliar to me.

I have arrived in Owensboro, I was chased the last 12 miles by a thunder storm and it caught up with me about 5 miles out of town. There was very little shoulder on the road and it was a while-knuckle ride into town. Tomorrow is bike shop day, that is, I need to visit a couple of bike shops. I need a tail light, a hand pump that works, some cycling gloves and maybe, just maybe I’ll find a shop that can switch-out my cassette for one with more climbing gears — although I’m not optimistic about that last one…

I had a “revelation” along the road today…

Day 21

Big Clifty KY, 65 miles

I want to be in Owensboro in two days… that’s 130 miles from this morning’s starting point. That’s going to be a challenge.

Owensboro is not on the ACA TransAm Route. Strictly speaking, there’s no rule that says you have to follow the ACA route. In fact, I’m diverting because I want to go through St. Louis, Missouri. The Cardinals will be in town in a week, they will be playing the Cincinnati Reds. How can you say no to that opportunity? It will add a few miles, but from my point of view, it will be well worth it!

The first highlight of today’s journey was passing by the birthplace of Abraham Lincoln. It is a National Park and it is a must see. There is a beautiful memorial building which is similar to the Lincoln Memorial in Washington D.C., only smaller in scale. It is set into a hill-side and surrounded by beautiful grounds and majestic trees. There is also a recreation of the log cabin that is (as best historians can determine) very similar to the one Lincoln was born in. I was mistaken in my earlier post when I said he was born near Springfield, that was actually where his mother and father were married. I would like to come back to this park again, perhaps next year. There are beautiful walking paths and it is a simply stunning place to relax and vicariously soak up some of the most significant elements of our nation’s history.

I entered Amish country in the mid-afternoon. I saw a horse-drawn carriage pull up to the gas station where I was having lunch. I had no idea what was going on so of course I had to investigate. I went over to the horse and carriage and noticed that the Mother and her four daughters were selling some goods near by. (I don’t have a clue where the husband went.) They had quilts, honey, home made pies and some pot holders (made by the teenage daughters). I really wanted to get a pie and some honey, but that doesn’t work when you’re on a bike, so instead I bought a potholder. It’s bright pink. The mother was surprised I chose the pink one, which I thought was interesting. I explained to her that it would act as a sort of warning flag when attached to the rear of my bike. She was okay with that… Her daughter Melinda made it, I chatted with all of them a bit and asked Melinda what the significance of the pattern was, she said, “it’s a star.” I guess I expected something a bit more “Amish” (whatever that might mean).

After purchasing my new “potholder-flag” for my bike, I called “Lucy” at the “Double L Grocery Store” to see if I could camp there. (The ACA route maps provide information about places to camp.) There was no answer. A couple of hours later I got a call from Lucy telling me the store was closed but I could pitch a tent there anyway. An hour or so later as I came over the top of a hill known is “Big Clifty,” I saw a man holding up a bottler of water, I knew I had arrived! Arnold and Lucy took me in as their guest. We sat on their outdoor patio for several hours, in fact, until almost 9:30 PM, which of course is past my bed time on the road! What chatted about everything and they served me dinner, including strawberries grown by the Amish just down the road. The strawberries were excellent, as was everything about my hosts. I plan to return to visit then again, perhaps next year.

This is very typical of the road-side view here in this part of Eastern Kentucky. I don’t know what sort of grain this is… but I am close to the Bourbon Trail…